Damir Doma Fall 2016
Remembering nature. Facing extinction. In a nod to the anomalies of craft, Damir Doma proposes a collection threaded with fragile tension, imbued with respect for serendipitous moments (both random and precious). Archival elements rise to the fore, parsing masculine and feminine tropes for a tranquil, wintry bohemia. fabric works envelope the body in fundamental exercises of draping and repair, for an equilibrium of the travaille and the untouched.
The long, tiered silhouette intersperses deconstructed sartoria with the drape of light flou, as pinstripe wools rub against silk satin and gunmetal jersey. Solid colors warm from black and bone white through oyster grey, forest green, cocoa and pale rose. Topstitched judo belts are embedded throughout, floating from shoulders or tracing the lines of a bias-cut column; elsewhere straight dresses and square tops cut in over-dyed wool voile mirror the graphic impact of a wrap skirt in brushstroke jacquard.
A timeworn effect adorns garments with delicate and brutal details: selvedge traces pockets and hemlines on blazers and slim coats, whilst raw seams frame wide trousers and gilets in twill or boiled wool. Kimono jackets accentuate the collection’s purist line, whilst contoured overcoats are dotted with horn buttons and brooches. Rollneck sweaters and a column dress are pierced with steel rings and softened by the speckled melange of inside-out ribbed cashmere knit. Talismanic beads are suspended from lapels and waistbands in strings of obsidian, tiger’s eye, hematite and dalmatian agate. On foot, pointed jacquard derbies have been edged in raw wool.