Duran Lantink SS24
Duran Lantink's fashion label had sustainability as part of the identity, earning him the prestigious ANDAM Special Prize in July. However, during his inaugural appearance at the official Paris Fashion Week, the Dutch designer shifted the conversation away from the familiar topics of repurposed materials to convey a more significant message.
Backstage before the show, Lantink expressed his creative exploration, emphasizing a focus on form rather than the fusion of garments and materials that marked his earlier work.
This summer , his first foray into the seasonal aspect of fashion, featured floral prints crafted from repurposed plastic bottles, complemented by a water-themed aesthetic, including lifebuoys. Lantink continued his avant-garde approach, showcasing pneumatic silhouettes, ranging from voluptuous, artificially-inflated sheath dresses to ethereal floating necklines, petite "bubble jeans," and tops reminiscent of French "frites" (fries), playfully referred to as "tubular objects d'art" in the show notes. He even ingeniously incorporated a lifejacket into a forest green bomber jacket and transformed a whale's tail into a dress, albeit one that revealed mostly the model's veiled backside.
Adding to this whimsical display, he merged a 19th-century silk veil with a traditional Dutch bonnet to create a sundress, while a vintage macramé tablecloth underwent a similar transformation. Among his inventive hybrids was a cage dress crafted from a sliced black T-shirt, knit deadstock, and a skirt worn over a white bubble top, offering an intriguing exploration of three-dimensionality.
Lantink introduced "Speedo-jeans," featuring classic men's swim briefs integrated with vintage jeans and hand-knitted leg warmers. He also experimented with bisecting and reassembling jeans or knits with tulle inserts, as well as transforming a vintage Helmut Lang coat into a new creation.
While he displayed moments of solid tailoring, such as a beige hooded jacket and an ecru suit, Lantink's primary focus remains a critical examination of our relationship with conventional clothing. The show's culmination featured a striking black hourglass cut-out dress with hook-like shoulders, exemplifying his thought-provoking approach. Even before his post-show announcement that renowned institutions like the Met Costume Institute, the V&A, and the Stedelijk museum had acquired his work for their permanent collections, Lantink's presentation left a lasting impression, inviting contemplation on the essence of fashion.
backstage photography and words DONALD GJOKA
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