DAVID KOMA SS26
David Koma is a busy man. Between his creative directorship at Blumarine and his own label that presented its resort collection in London just last week, the Georgian designer has now decided to make his menswear runway debut for the first time in Berlin. Perhaps it was deserved then that his Spring/Summer 2026 show, cheekily named “I LOVE DAVID”, paid homage to himself.
For his third-ever menswear collection, Koma’s inspiration drew from the new and unexpected three-in-one godhead of Davids: himself, David Beckham and Michelangelo’s David. Unified by their shared name, the collection was a bravado-filled, tongue-in-cheek reflection on male persona and image-making. Unsurprisingly for a collection titled “I LOVE DAVID”, the clothes themselves had ego, styled with flip-flops and sunglasses like rich kids on holiday. With lazy confidence, the models sauntered down the runway in polo shirts and knit cardigans, in low-slung denim, floral shorts and pyjama pants.
Whilst the clothes were relaxed in silhouette, they were extra in embellishment. Koma’s signature embroidery appeared in the collection’s hibiscus motif, inspired by the designer’s summer holidaying. Hand-made and found on both formal and day wear, the flower came in many forms, including an oversized brooch, detachable belt, and 3D patterning on shorts. Classic tailoring was met with sequined pinstripes, catching the light to match the shimmer-adorned skin of the models.
This was an indicator of Koma’s new type of man. With his menswear still in its early, formative years, the identity Koma carved out was fun, hedonistic, and unafraid of excess. He wore trench coats with board shorts, utility jumpsuits with shimmering flower brooches. He walked around with his shirt undone and jeans hanging low. His lounge wear, a matching knit cardigan and pants, was certainly better than yours.
In creating this man, Koma drew as much from his fellow namesakes as his own style. Bare chests and figure-hugging clothes made for an eroticised male figure like Michelangelo’s David, where the texture of marble was said to inspire the collection’s draped T-shirts. The low V-necks and statement outerwear channelled paparazzi-style photos, with Koma’s “I LOVE DAVID” sweatshirt paying explicit homage to Beckham’s “I KISS FOOTBALL” jersey.
Aspirational and hedonistic, Koma paid homage to celebrity culture, which was not only integral to his own come-up in the industry but also to the social perception of the masculine image. Personal identity-forming came into play via Koma’s insertions of his signature styles, resulting in a three-way dialogue on male ego and dressing. For Koma, the answer to what makes a modern man came in the form of a collection that was above all, fun, and clothes that were effortless whilst still being extra.
Words by SHARYN BUDIARTO
