I'll admit something right away: For sometimes i have admired Ilona’s work, when I reached out to propose this interview, I did it with the excitement of finally talking to someone about something truly interesting. I read that she opened her website for the sale of her clothing, well what better time to find out what's behind those incredible clothes? I sent her the questions by email, as you do with serious people but inside, I was already sitting at an imaginary table with her, ready to talk about creative processes and her world. Ilona, moves through the world with the precision of someone who knows exactly where each stitch, or maybe opposite. Her work carries a dark feminine quality shaped between the teenage streets of Los Angeles, the formative grit of Berlin, and the solitude of a Paris apartment where she once spent a year sewing alone. In September 2022, she introduced her self made brand designing, cutting, and sewing every piece herself.

Her debut took cues from industrial sound and Romeo Castellucci's Parsifal, setting an energy and tone that still runs through her work. From the deeply personal second collection, Psychosis, to the surreal bridal finale inspired by the fairytales she grew up on, llona treats fashion as autobiography raw, stylised, and unapologetically her own. Recently dressing Lady Gaga for multiple appearances, she continues to create for those who want clothes that sharpen identity. For llona, design is a constant act of self definition: a way to make the inner visible without compromise.

You grew up between Los Angeles, Paris and Berlin, how did each of these cities shape your creative vision and inform your dark feminine aesthetic?

Los Angeles was where I spent my teenage years which was when I found myself and creativity, Berlin where I spent my formative years as an artist and experienced its culture, and Paris I really hated so I spent a year locked up in my apartment sewing, I really never saw anyone.

Your brand debut was in Sept 2022, entirely self made from design to sewing. What did that hands on process teach you about yourself as a designer?

I would say it taught me that I literally can do anything I put my mind to.

Your first collection drew inspiration from industrial sound and from Romeo Castellucci's Parsifal. How do those influences manifest in silhouettes or materials?

Castellucci's work was a major influence for my color palette, and industrial sound helped to shape an energy for the collection that I couldn't put into words.

Where are you living now? Are you planning to move?

I now live in Los Angeles, it wasn’t something I planned, I came here to visit my family and friends, and just never left. I fell in love with LA again, I feel at peace here, and I’m the happiest I've ever been.

What do you want people to feel when they wear an 'Ilona' piece?

I would hope they feel confident and like they’re able to express themselves more accurately.

I read in an interview that your second collection, Psychosis, was based on a deeply personal experience of hospitalization. How did you navigate the translation of such an emotionally charged period into material form?

It was honestly really difficult turning that experience into a collection because I had to revisit the trauma that I previously had put behind me, but it felt necessary. My ultimate goal was for other people who struggle with mental illness to feel represented, and people reached out to me saying they felt seen and it made it all worth it to me. There were also people who reached out telling me I was a horrible person for “using” mental illness in a fashion context haha, not everyone understands the vision.

The bridal piece was incredible. What does the bride symbolize for you in your world?

The collection was autobiographical in a sense, the bride concluding because I feel like that's the last thing I’ll do. I think I blame Disney, because I grew up watching these fairytales that would always end with a wedding.

You recently dressed Lady Gaga for several performances and appearances, including Netflix’s Tudum event and the Elton John documentary. How has it been working with her?

Gaga is an artist I've admired and respected for a very long time. I love working with her and have so much fun.

Do sound or theatre ever influence the way you design? Which one?

I would say music tremendously influences my work as I'm always listening to something as I design or when I take walks which is when I come up with all my ideas.

““It started as a transformation, and has become protection, as it keeps the general population away from me, which is lovely.””

— Ilona

What’s a secret talent or hobby most people don’t know about you?

I’m lucky that my hobby is my job but if I had more time I would probably learn ballet or bake more. Secret talent I would say is film photography. I can develop my own film as well as print in the darkroom.

When did the white makeup begin? Was it for protection, or transformation?

It’s been almost a decade of the white makeup. It started as a transformation, and has become protection, as it keeps the general population away from me, which is lovely.

Do you ever dream of becoming someone completely different?

Honestly I love myself, so I wouldn't wish to be completely different, but I always aim to become a better version of who I already am. I wish I was born earlier so I could have experienced the 80s and 90s as a teenager.

What color do you think your shadow is?

I've never thought of this before but now that I have, it feels purple.