Tourne de Transmission SS18
Tourne De Transmission proclaims, reflects, and subsumes a sentiment reverberating worldwide with its latest show SS18 show "The Lies that Bind". Fed up with the multilayered distortion politics and the media have become synonymous with, Creative Director Graeme Guaghan wants to know what's being fed to the public and repackaged under the guise of "progress." Peeling of the layers of deceit seems like the logical step, and the obvious one at that. But Guaghan knows an easy inversion won't do.
Instead of simply uncovering (though that's still a motif with the deconstructed seams, straps, and flashes of skin), the collection is rife with piles of unconventional layers. A sculptural semicircular piece drapes alongside the head of one model, while several are covered in skim masks with ear cutouts, along with handkerchiefs concealing the mouths of some. Adding layers of transparent materials and everyday materials also adds a textural dimension to the collection, not to mention how interchangeable these pieces can be.
While there are remnants of street culture here and there, the tailored cuts, weirdly unseemly and flattering all at once, move beyond wearability, splitting into the absurd and utility. The myriad references and materials make for a dark, delicious cacophony, making one thing clear: we're in a time where everything really does seem to fall apart at the seams.
words SUNNY LEE
photography KALINA PULIT