AVAVAV FW26
There are shows you attend, and then there are shows that attend to you. Avavav's FW26 presentation in Milan belonged firmly to the second category. Guests entered alone, were guided past their expected seats, and found themselves walking a corridor formed by two parallel lines of models, dressed, still, watching. The audience became the spectacle. A loop of male voices describing their female muses played overhead, familiar in its cadence, unsettling in its accumulation.
Creative Director Beate Skonare Karlsson built the collection around a single, loaded question: what does a woman wear when she is dressing for other women? The results feel less like fashion and more like a conversation between people who already understand each other. Suit trousers merge with pencil skirts. Oversized T-shirts are cut to contour without shrinking. Basketball shorts reveal themselves as A-line skirts through an internal panel. Nothing is straightforward, but nothing feels forced either.
The hyper-feminine references, tissue-stuffed bras, pearls, garter details, arrive with a knowing double register. They recall the performance of womanhood before it was fully inhabited, the adolescent trying on someone else's idea of herself. Here, those same codes return reclaimed, worn with curiosity rather than compliance. Beate has spoken about being drawn to women who carry their imperfections like accessories. It reads in the clothes. There is no smoothing-over, no aspiration toward a universal silhouette. Instead, the collection insists on character: severity sitting beside softness, nostalgia beside defiance, within the same look.
Avavav also presented its fourth season with adidas Originals, reinterpreting archive pieces through the brand's own grammar, tailored track jackets, trompe l'oeil shorts, and a new sculptural sneaker drawn from the 1990s Megaride. The collaboration continues to resist easy tribute. Oatly contributed three signature drinks conceived alongside the collection, treating a social ritual with the same structural consideration given to garments.
“The Female Gaze, as Avavav frames it, is a question kept deliberately open. Fashion Week, for once, felt like the right place to ask it.”
Words by Donald Gjoka



