Based in Milan, Shanghai-born designer Miaoran is famed for creating wearable, timeless pieces that transcend paradigms. His Autumn Winter 2019 presentation could belong to any epoch, looking like something that could have easily come from the seedy underbelly of the 1940s, or conversely, a very chic future.
There are very obvious military influences in tailoring, functional details and colour. Khaki greens and rusty browns reign supreme in the neutral colour spectrum. Funnel-neck coats, boilersuits and leather accessories add a vintage element to the collection, whilst sheer-knit layers, cyberpunk sunglasses and neon-pink piping take it to the future. These pieces are sexy yet austere, as if borrowed straight from a neo-noir film. It’s traditional espionage meets ‘Bladerunner.’
To counter-balance the moodier pieces, there are creams and light-wash blues featuring architectural prints. They’re refreshing accents to an otherwise dark collection. The overall murkiness of the Autumn Winter range is undoubtedly its unique selling point, however. It’s minimalism at its most experimental; statement looks that say just enough.
photography DONALD GJOKA
words MORNA FRASER
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