Xu Zhi AW19
Creating a mundane scene of strangers (casted dancers) seemingly disparate stories uniting amid the chaos of the outside world, this collection was XU ZHI's debut of having a male and female cast. Inspired by the anonymity of Gustav Klimt's 'The Woman in Gold', the designer stipulated "I usually have a muse I design for, but she is a bit more abstract. When it comes to menswear, I can base it on experience and it feels like I'm designing for myself."
The mood of the XU XHI's A/W19 collection was built with tactics of distortion via layering, present in both silhouettes and textiles. He combined his familiar techniques of braiding and embroidery with innovative fabric treatments. The inspiratory tassel bags, co-ordinates and millinery work make personal favourites and hint to influences from western trends, while his lengthy jackets exhibit his refined craftsmenship. XU ZHI's incorporation of pastel tones captures calmness amongst chaos. Such an announcement is to be valued in a time of Capitalist and urban pressure leading people to the edge. XU ZHI's Autumn/Winter 19 collection is a contemporary sanctuary.
photography JESSICA GWYNETH
words KATE BISHOP
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