Sep 26

Sep 26 Blumarine SS27

For Spring/Summer 2027, David Koma finds a parallel between the ingénue of California cinema, the sun-kissed bohemian bombshell suspended between beach and boudoir, and the femininity that has always defined Blumarine. Reading the maison's most iconic references through his own lens, the Creative Director takes his research on romanticism out of shadow and into light, translating it into a palette of dusty pastel tones that nods to both the pop culture of the 1970s and the 2000s through the Blumarine archive.

Daywear takes on new weight in this collection, drawing on the codes of loungewear and sleepwear. Plumetis tank tops extend into floor-length robes, mini dresses and blouses, while crépon trousers and blouses take on soft, relaxed volumes finished with ruffles. Jersey leggings and tops wrap and gather around the body like lingerie, and corsets turn into evening gowns. Baby-doll and peasant dresses multiply into soft, voluminous shirts, skirts and dresses in organza and tulle.

A boudoir sensibility runs through ruffled knit briefs and cropped sweaters, alongside the house's signature cardigan reworked in viscose yarn with an ostrich feather collar. West Coast beach culture surfaces in a sporty-bohemian energy, from jersey bodysuits with swimwear-inspired cut-outs to a shearling surfer jacket. The season also marks an exclusive collaboration with UGG, with the F26 Enwrap Clog reimagined in two versions for the runway: one framed in galvanized silver metal set with crystal, pink and multicolor cabochon stones, the other lifted by soft ostrich feathers in natural white and light lavender.

There's a lot of freshness in the collection, very girly, and also this mix of art with everyday references. What can you tell us about that combination?

It was very interesting for me, because this collaboration came about while I was on a trip with my team in LA. I like to go there at least once a year, just to relax and do research, and something clicked while we were out there. I thought it was a perfect match, taking something so recognizable and so tied to everyday life and connecting it to day wear and youth culture, then bringing that together with the femininity of Blumarine, its evening wear and its glamour. There's something in that friction, in placing something so casual against the eveningwear codes of the house, that creates a real sense of newness. It is not a straightforward pairing, and that is exactly what makes it interesting to me.

And the color palette? There's a lot of pink.

Yes, there's a reference in there to something I find genuinely beautiful, and pink became the starting point for the whole palette. I wanted the strong pastels to feel almost sun faded, as if they had lived outside for a whole summer. There's a lot of transparency running through the collection, a lot of tonality, and a real sense of lightness in how the colors sit against each other.

How does that lightness carry through into the materials you chose?

It shows up everywhere, in georgette, silk tulle, jersey, and organza, mixed with denim and shearling, and a lot of knitwear too. Combining something as structured as denim with something as fluid as silk tulle gave the collection its balance. It gives the whole thing a light, summery feel, even in the pieces that read as more elevated.

The collection reads as very contemporary rather than nostalgic. Was that a conscious choice?

Yes, for sure. I did not want it to feel nostalgic, and I think that came through. It is grounded in the present, in what we live now, and that is exactly the point I wanted to make. Rather than looking back at a specific reference from the past, I wanted the collection to feel connected to how people actually dress and move through their days right now.