The themes of irreparable environmental damage and uncertain futures seems to be recurring across recent fashion weeks. Humanity’s propellant past the point of no return has fuelled many of this year’s showcases, and Berlin-based label GmbH is one of them. Recycling, anti-fast fashion and migration have always underpinned GmbH’s collections, but this Autumn Winter sees these themes taking flight in a newer, more elegant direction.
Titled ‘Rare Earth,’ the presentation is more sculpted than GmbH’s previous collections. Gone are the classic club-kid looks and burly silhouettes. This is migration out of Earth in the most sophisticated fashion. Double-breasted coats, tailored suits and silk neck-ties elevate the collection to a timeless masterpiece, whilst hammer and sickle motifs and acid-wash denim add a playful reminder of GmbH’s core roots. Even the casual looks, like the oversized padded bomber jackets and zip-neck pullovers, have an air of comfortable decadence to them. The collection colour palette is simple and refined, boasting clean neutrals like navy, champagne and steel blue.
GmbH’s Benjamin Alexander Huseby and Serhat Isik have taken the melancholy realities of irrevocable, man-made damage and transformed it into something hopeful and beautiful. If leaving this planet is the ultimate migration, why not exit with dignity and poise?
photography GABRIEL FABRY
interview MORNA FRASER
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