Is there an underlying theme that you are trying to voice through all of your work? Or does every piece/ project you do have a different meaning behind it?
I think a lot has to do with using male connotations but using them on very feminine clothing, like tattoos on corsets and panties. And putting porn ads (directed to men) on baywatch-swimsuits. I also like to play with vulgar attributes like, too sexy, too naked, too much, too tight. It all comes down to myself really, having a mum that always dressed über vulgar and hating that and then embracing it. And being a very femme woman myself but acting very much like a man. No fear just taking what I want without apologizing for it. I guess that sometimes scares men and is quite provocative for other women. A big fan of Grace Jones in that way she embodies male aggressiveness as a woman.
What is your mental process like when you come up with a new idea? What do you think about first? How do you organize your thoughts? Often ideas pop into my head at very random times, so I often find it hard to keep all my ideas in the same place. What is it like for you?
I’m always trying to be in a “good mood” when being in the idea process. I really hate mornings so for me it’s about getting up late, dressing up a bit so I feel inspired and being around people that can relate to what I do and push me in the right direction. I never have a set out plan of how I want the garments or prints to look like, I just have a concept and then just experimenting a lot. Always trying to keep it “fun” not putting to much pressure on myself, that just shows on your work, and I mean it’s only clothes right?
Key for me is to never think that something will come out as you think it will, but embracing that spontaneous and “everything can happen” mentality that is very me. I was never a “good girl” sitting and sewing beautiful seems, and making everything the teachers told me. I’m a bit of a quiet rebelI. I learn to embrace the ugly and uneven, but always having a luxury feel to it.
There seems to be a lot of controversy in the industry right now, especially revolving around well known designers copying smaller designers and not giving credit when it’s due. What are your thoughts this and why do you believe it’s happening? Have your designs ever been replicated without your consent?
Haha I actually had that happen, but if it’s a brand or someone I look up to I just find it fun and happy to be an inspiration and appart of something. We all see the same things and the same time nowadays...and as long as you take an inspiration and make it your own it’s fine I think. It’s just unnecessary to make a copy of something that already exists.
And also I always think of a quote from the movie The Red Shoes from 1948, when the ballet chef Boris say to a young student composer that got his work stolen by his professor when hearing his music at the Ballet opening. “It is much more disheartening to have to steal than to be stolen from.” I guess it means that the person that steals an Idea (deliberately or not) needs your idea because he or she lacks ideas. While for you it’s not that big of a deal, you have more where that came from.
courtesy ISABELLE LARSSON
interview KATE BROWN
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