UMA WANG SS27
A wood-panelled hall with a pulpit in one corner hosted the show, and perfume hung in the room as the first looks walked. Calder's mobiles supplied the logic of the season: mass that sways, gravity held in suspension. Wang returned to motifs and constructions from her fall collection and rebuilt them in lighter cloth. Organza, crumpled linen and sheer technical fabrics with a gossamer sheen wrapped and knotted around the body, softening every tailored line.
A tailored jacket opened at the back onto a fluid silk panel. A skirt and a pair of trousers merged into a single garment, and heavy draped cotton met a weightless chiffon trench. A mesh knit sheath in floral jacquard coiled around the torso and closed at the neck with a spherical silver brooch. Tiny wire-framed oval sunglasses finished the looks.
Each piece leaves the final decision to the wearer, who can tie and restyle it in several ways. Wang calls this exchange a dialogue between designer and customer, and she frames the lightness of the season as a philosophy for living as much as for dressing.
Photography by Eva Rivas Bao
Words by Donald Gjoka
